On September 2012 I was visiting Rome to shoot RetRome, a boutique hotel in Celio neighborhood, few steps away from the Colosseum. The hotel, managed by two Israelis, is unique by its retro and vintage design and furniture. You can read more about it here, in a previous post I wrote about my experience and my impression.
Today, my photographed article about RetRome is featured in At Magazine, January 2013 issue
‘In Rome, live like the Romans do’
What a great way to start my weekend with my interview for SisterMag blog.
If you want to know what are my favorite magazines these days and what were my favorite books when I was a kid, you can find the answers right there.
I contributed an article about ‘The Hospital of Dolls’ in the recent Christmas Magazine and looking forward to contribute and collaborate with SisterMag again.
Thanks Thea and Toni for this great opportunity.
The first time I’ve heard about sisterMAG was few months ago, when Saloona, a blog platform in Israel I am writing for, invited Thea and Toni Neubauer (aka Sister Magazine) to participate in a blogger conference in Israel.
As I was not in Israel at that time, my girlfriend Einat from DesignBreak was telling me all about the Sisters and their doing. Since that time, I’ve started following Thea and Toni’s magazine, and was amazed how these two were putting together such a great product. With time, sisterMAG became more and more familiar to me. I remember Anne from Pret a Voyager posted some images from The Hive in Berlin with Thea and Toni, same as Lindsey, from Lost in Cheeseland. So even without meeting Thea and Toni in person, thanks to my colleagues bloggers, I felt as I know The Sisters.
In my recent visit to Paris, Lindsey suggested I should contact sisterMAG and maybe contribute for their next issue. One thing led to another and I found myself writing a photographed article about Ospedale della Bambole, a hospital for dolls I’ve shot in my recent visit to Naples. The article is part of a series, The Crafters, which sisterMAG will probably continue in future issues.
To read the full article, please press on the link and make sure you subscribe to the magazine or download it to your iPad.
I’m so honored to have my story featured in the Christmas issue. 300 plus pages of great inspiration!
Happy Holidays!
You know it is the Holiday Season in New York by the window displays in the big department stores. A week before ThanksGiving, the windows, which were covered and under constructions, are getting revealed and unveiled with its Christmas decorations.
I must admit that from all Midtown department stores windows displays, Bergdorf Goodman is, by far, the most creative and interesting one. It has been like that for years. And yet, if there is a trend in this year holiday window displays, it has something to do with interactivity.
David Hoey, the creative guru of Bergdorf Goodman’s windows’ display was inspired this year by the Jazz Age. In an audio tour he talks about The BG Follies of 2012, and how he was inspired by entertainments such as the Ziegfeld Follies, Vaudeville revues and Busby Berkeley’s Hollywood musicals of the 1930s.
Act I: By Request
In this first window, there is a black and white homage to Marilyn Monroe in Billy Wilder’s movie Some Like It Hot. The Window is featuring a bird’s eye view of fashion from Marc Jacobs, 3.1 Phillip and Elie Saab. The bird’s eye perspective, according to Hoey, is a well known trick in the design world and in the window displays’ arene and his creative team loves to use that perspective.
Act II: Naughty and Nice
The second window is a tribute to burlesque performer Sally Rand, the inventor of the risque fan dance. The main and only character in this window is covered in thousands of white feathers, used as a mosaic and was constructed feather by feather (!!!) I can’t even imagine the patience needed for this entirely white window.
Act III
The third window showcases a collection of mid-century miniature American mannequins once used for display and merchandising, as well as for sewing practice. It is already well known that David spends months over months, building up these collections until the time is right to use them. So this year Hoey decided it was the right time to use his miniature mannequins collection as 1920s Ziegfeld Follies girls on fifteen miniature stage reproductions made from replica 18th-Century wood moulding in A Cast of a Thousands.
Act IV, Daredevil Act
The forth window (which is my favorite) is Bergdorf Goodman’s novelty act, featuring a runway look from Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen’s Spring 2013 runway collection. As David said, every show needs a novelty act, and Bergdorf Goodman’s highlight this year is the 24 plaster dogs performing every trick under the sun. ‘Our windows are a practice in making the impossible possible — in twisting complexities to new levels by using old-world craftsmanship and artistry’ David says. Every surface of Act IV is covered in gold and silver leaf. I just love the red and gold combination and the dogs’ character.
Act V, The Finale
The fifth window’s installation, is a giant mirrored, rotating kaleidoscope. David and his team were sketching prototypes until the team discovered that beveled mirrors moving in both clockwise and counterclockwise movement created the best result. Approximately 1,000 individually beveled mirrors were used to create this kaleidoscope set into motion by seven separate rotating motors. The effect should be dizzying, psychedelic… an homage to Busby Berkeley’s overhead kaleidoscopic camera shot seen in Footlight Parade. To complement the mirrored effect in this duo act are two custom-created gowns from Naeem Khan.
Make sure to check out the Behind the Scene of Bergdorf Goodman’s Holiday windows. You will be amazed of how many people, hours and thoughts are invested in this experience called Bergdorf Goodman Christmas Display. The crew has been working for weeks but the theme has been thought for months already.
The windows will be up till January 3, so if you are in New York, make sure to see them.
Happy Holidays!
In my recent visit to Israel I had the opportunity to shoot one of the most ‘talked-about’ boutique hotels, The Efendi Hotel in Acre, North of Israel.
Travel + Leisure magazine was doing a book about some of the most beautiful hotels in the world and contacted me for a shoot. Since there was a big buzz around The Efendi already, I was curious to visit it myself, not to mention to photograph it as well as the opportunity to meet the owner Uri Buri was exciting.
Uri Buri is known for his prestigious seafood restaurant in Acre Port (as a little girl, my family always used to make a stop at his restaurant after a long trip to the North) and he is a well known character in Israel for his great restaurant, and now for his luxurious hotel as well. Let it be known that when someone is so passionate about great food and wine, like Uri is, he will be totally involved with aesthetic, good taste and the little details of the hotel he has envisioned.
I asked Merav, a good friend with a great taste in design to join me, so the shoot was even more enjoyable, beside the fact we got a personal tour by Uri Buri himself.
Before you dwell your eyes in the photos of the hotel, I highly recommend to read the history of the building that used to be two palaces and get the details of the restoration process that lasted for over eight years, in order to understand how special this hotel is, and how courageous and visionary Uri is.
The name Efendi by the way, was used in the Ottoman era to give respect and courtesy to a person. It is the equivalent to the English word ‘Sir’. No coincidence that The Efendi house is a combination of two buildings that were once glorious palaces, which served the rulers and rich Ottomans in the 19th century in Acre.
The Lobby
The Lobby of the Efendi and the entrance hall is dotted with blue color armchairs imported from Italy. There is a wine cellar and a restaurant on the lower level and a great Spa with an original 400-year-old Turkish bath, that has been preserved. The lobby, in my opinion, is just the beginning of the beauty you will see throughout the rest of the hotel.
Central Communal Salons
The Efendi has twelve guest rooms spread out equally over three floors. On every floor there is a central communal salon (I love that idea) with appealing sitting areas for the guests to relax and recharge. Big windows overlooking the Mediterranean sea are the perfect backdrop for relaxation. Uri worked closely with an interior designer who chose specific chairs from Damascus, Syria, a wooden table that used to be a trough in Tibet and some heavy brown armchairs from England. The white ceiling is completing the scenery with original and restored Italian frescos. Quilted rugs give warmth to the rooms.
The Original Wall Painting
Another communal area on the third floor is well defined by its colorful ceiling and an original wall painting from the Ottoman time. The original wall painting was a gesture of the Efendi (the home owner) to Turkish emperor at that time. Uri explained us how difficult it was to restore this wall painting and how he gladly hired special Italian painters to do so. The outcome and the final restored wall painting is mesmerizing.
The Rooms
Each room of the 12 guest rooms is different than one another and has a unique style and character. One of my favorite rooms was The Presidential (room number 10) which was actually the first room I shot. This is the biggest guest room with high ceiling decorated with the Italian frescos of course, marble floors and a stunning sea view. I loved the freestanding bathtub next to the window. Imagine taking a bath and looking outside at the sea?
The enormous bed is covered with Egyptian cotton linens and goose down pillows and blankets, quality towels, robes, and pampering slippers. Even though I am an outdoor person, during Winter time, I could stay all day in this Presidential room.
The Royal Room (room number 1) was also one of my favorites, thanks to the beautiful blue view of the Mediterranean Sea from one window and the old city Mosque from the second. This room is quite big as well, with spacious sitting area, separate bathtub and a shower. I loved the colorful dishes in this room (in fact, in every room) from PIP studio. How creative of the interior designer to combine PIP elements.
The Terrace
The terrace of The Efendi is overlooking the sea, the Galilean mountains and the old city Mosque. Turquoise soft pillows are scattered on the marble floors, allowing the guests complete relaxation while inhaling the blue of the sea. A second terrace is located in the upper level, on the roof, where guests can enjoy a BBQ dinner, glass of wine and a great sea breeze, overlooking the old houses of Acre.
Learning about the history of the hotel, and hearing all the details of its restoration made the shooting experience even more meaningful. I made it as a priority to capture all its beauty, even in its little details, so the story of The Efendi will be beautifully told.
If you, like me, love to visit flea markets wherever you travel, than this post is for you. If you are looking for one of the most trendiest areas in Tel Aviv – Jaffa these days, look no further. The flea market in Jaffa is the place to be.
A few weeks ago I met a colleague of mine, Karen Shavit, who is by the way, the Israeli version of Martha Stewart (but way younger) for a Rondez Vous in the flea market of Jaffa. Karen is definitely the ‘go-to’ person for everything that has to do with vintage and design and she is also the kind of woman who can easily and naturally combine business and pleasure. Therefore, I found myself touring some of her favorite spots in the flea market (which most of them happened to be favors of mine) and see in my own eyes and camera lens how everyone knows Karen and welcomes her with open arms.
This is my quick guide and a colorful tour for some of my favorite spots in the flea market of Jaffa.
Nekudot Chen
Might be one of the biggest stores with rare collections of furniture and decorations. The owners fix and restore old furnitures he collects from all over Israel. This is one of Karen’s ‘must stop’ store. When we were there, she was looking for these old hair dryers that beauty salons used to keep in the 70ies. Even though she didn’t find one, we could easily shop for old restored lamps for her kitchen, old scales, some street signs and more. For me, every time I visit this place, it is like being ‘Alice in Vintage-land’
Nekudot Chen, 13 Oley Zion street, Jaffa
Home Workshop
A two-floor store with an eclectic home decor collection from different locations in the world. The owner combines Bohemian chic with Oriental elements on a long dining table display in the center of the store. A little bit of mich- much but it seems that the regular clients easily find their ways there. One of the pictures I took of Home Workshop was published in Marie Claire Italy, September Issue.
Home Workshop, 4 Rabi Yochanan street, Jaffa
BoBo
BoBo stands for Bourgeois Bohême which refers in French to an artistic way of life, usually attached to yuppies. I wouldn’t necessarily say the clothes and accessories store attracts mostly yuppies but the BoBo sound of the French definition, definitely give it a different class. I love this little store. Especially the old bath-tub in the front window that serves as a decoration and as a place to hold some clothes. (don’t try it at home). The clothes are very vintage and the accessories look like little candies on a tray.
BoBo, 12 Rabi Pinchas corner of 4 Rabi Nachman, Jaffa
Ma’asiya
This is one of the most inspiring stores for me in the flea market. A gallery of two floors that serves as a meeting point for creative ideas and a collaboration among creative people. The store holds clothes for kids and adults, home textile, vintage crockery straight from the 60ies, toys, furnitures, and the highlight of the store are the recycled clothes made of pique blankets that people donate. The store’s concept is to support and promote needy groups in society; the elderly, the minorities and people with disabilities. It just make Ma’asiya even better.
Every time I visit Maasiya, I get this warm fuzzy and comfort feeling. Must be the nostalgic wave I get each time I see the pique fabric, that reminds me of my childhood.
Make Ma’asiya a MUST stop when you visit the flea market.
Maasiya, 3 Rabi Yochanan street, Jaffa
Tamara
When we entered the little store of Tamara, it was obvious from the start she has a great taste and a wild imagination. Using materials such as colorful stones, chunky feathers, glossy beads and embroidery make her jewelry line and accessories very theatrical. Everything is hand made. I loved the three drawers hung on one of the walls and serve as a great decoration and a way to showcase Tamara’s talent and taste. It’s a fun store and every woman can find something for herself.
Tamara, 16 Rabi Pinchas street, Jaffa
Sofi
Well, Hello to you blast of colors, Good bye boredom. This is exactly how I feel each time I visit Sofi store. It is like Willy Wonka but for fun accessories. You can shop for kitchen ware from Kitsch Kitchen, Toys, bags, accessories from the Danish concept store *Rice, (already on my bookmark) and some vintage Asian packaging designed boxes and objects from Wu & Wu. Don’t rush when you visit Sofi. It is a treasured store and you want to have the time to explore it.
Sofi, 3 Rabi Nachman street, Jaffa
Una Una Shoes
If you ever wondered how well-hand made shoes look like, I suggest you visit the studio Una Una. To be honest, I still didn’t buy myself a pair of shoes at the store, but I love the colored pairs the designer makes. The designer is an artist and every pair of shoes looks like a well-leather sculpture. I’m sure they are so comfortable to walk on. Beside the great shoes, the little store with a studio attached in the back, has a great vintage piano and some old sewing machines as a decoration display.
Una Una, 8 Rabi Yohanan street, Jaffa
Sharon Brunsher
Some people refer to Sharon Brunsher’s store as a ‘foster kid’ among the rest of the stores. She is definitely not vintage, and her clothes are only in the black, white and grey colors; the opposite of the vibrant feel of the flea market. Some people refer to her clean Nordic style as a breath of fresh air, or as a ‘chromo- break’ in the middle of the busy tempo of the market. And yet, Sharon Brunsher’s store is a great example and proof that Jaffa’s flea market is developing and becoming a trendy place, otherwise she wouldn’t have chosen this location. When I entered the store I got a smack of white light in my eyes (thanks to the white wooden floor) and it was great to touch some minimalistic and light fabrics through my fingers.
Sharon Brunsher, 13 Amihad street, Jaffa
Pua Restaurant
I can’t finish my vibrant vintage tour in Jaffa without a stop for a cup of coffee or a bite at Pua restaurant. The space looks like a retro apartment my grandparents used to have, filled with furnitures and decorations well collected from the vintage stores next door. Beside the eclectic atmosphere and design, Pua serves a great, earthy and tasty food. Israeli breakfast is served all day (a great plus for those who love a good well-balanced mediterranean breakfast) and the menu changes according to the owner’s desire. Rest asure that every day will be a good one. I highly recommend to make reservations (if possible) or be patient as this place is very busy.
Pua, 8 Rabi Yochanan street, Jaffa
In addition to all the goodies, the vintage finds or the retro feel, the flea market of Jaffa is a great place to shoot and encounter some interesting characters.
For years, I’ve been an avid reader of Travel + Leisure, one of the most leading travel magazines in the world. The magazine serves as an on-going inspiration for my next travel destinations and not once do I buy an issue and highlight some articles and find tips on where to stay, what to see, where to eat and what is the next ‘most desirable’ place these days. Truth is that my in flight read (beside the magazine they give you on the plane) is always the recent issue of Travel + Leisure, and since I’ve started my Travel Photography career, Travel + Leisure was definitely something to look for.
I am so excited one of my Pharmacia Restaurant images has made it to the ‘Lisbon by Design’ segment in November issue. It seems Lisbon gets the exposure it deserves and I’m glad to be part of it.
Here is my intake on Lisbon’s Design Scene and my experience of Pharmacia restaurant.
(My image is on the second page, on the lower left of the article)
I must admit that when I travel, I’m being quite picky in choosing accommodation.
Choosing the right place for the right mood and moment, sometimes can make all the difference. This is why I decided to spend my short Rome vacation in the vintage retro chic hotel RetRome, which is just a walking distance from the Colosseum. (a huge plus). Nevertheless, it was a great opportunity to take some pictures of its different eclectic rooms and hear more about it from Moti Erdeapel, its young entrepreneur owner, who I adore for his great drive and vision.
Apparently, both Moti and I grew up at the same city in Israel, but we never met before. So it was only natural not only to hear how he started his business but also to catch up on some familiar childhood memories.
Moti found himself in Rome to study Political Science majoring in International relations. He decided to study abroad as he wanted to experience a different culture and see the world (sounds familiar) and ended up staying. During his studies he was working in a small hotel in Rome and realized he was drawn to this world of hospitality and tourism. He loved the dynamic of the business and meeting people from all over the world. So when he was on the verge of graduating school, it was quite obvious for him that he would try on his own.
How it started:
Moti started his first tiny hotel with a local friend and together they rented a small space next to Rome Central Train Station and due to a tight budget, they bought old furniture in the flee markets and garage sales and ended up restoring them. They decided to name the place RetRome, (for the combination of Retro and Rome) and kept growing. They wanted to do something different that would reflect their personality but also offer their guests a fresh experience and an alternative to what was out there for tourists. After a few years in this location, the RetRome moved to its current location, which is a much bigger space that could offer more comfort and better amenities to their guests, but they kept the same unique design concept of vintage and personal touch to the interior design.
The Vintage Concept:
“Using vintage furniture and objects is a way to create spaces that communicate with the guest via icons and nostalgic pieces that serve as time capsule of a shared cultural memory” Moti shared with me his vintage choices. “We never forget that our mission is to offer a home away from home to our guests so a clean relaxed atmosphere is an important guideline…besides, I think that the value that old furniture can give to a space is by far higher then just picking up everything from the shelf or a catalog. The notion that only new is desirable is slowly passing from the world and I personally am very happy with that.”
Apart from his passion for design, Moti has decided to use vintage furniture also for eco-friendly reasons. He searches and restores old furniture instead of buying everything new (sustainable agenda) and the hotel uses energy saving and non polluting systems for heating, warm water and air-conditioning. A year ago, Moti and his parter Oren Zohar, decided to branch out and opened a second hotel in Barcelona, which is proving to be a great success. He also told me in ‘secret’ that his future goal is to open a third hotel in Berlin. I can only imagine how great it will be.
Meanwhile, here are some of the great and charming vintage articles and furniture in RetRome, Roma.
The Reception:
When you enter the reception, you cannot avoid the two vertical posters of Merilyn Monroe and of Marlon Brando, which served as an advertising to a photography exhibit in 2005. The two great brown leather sofas (you really want to dive into them) were bought in a Rome’s Sunday flee market and Moti completely restored them. The huge space aged white lamp was inherited after a friend left an apartment, and the blue velvety armchair was bought from a friend who is a movie-set designer. There are so many objects and articles that were collected and bought from Rome and Amsterdam’s flee markets throughout the years.
The Blue Room:
I’m obsessed with its gorgeous deep blue flower tiles. As minimalistic as it is, this is one of my favorite rooms. Very sunny and airy with a huge white leather bed that gives a romantic twist. It has an original Art work on the walls of a typical Italian guy on a Vespa. (Art work is by Andrea from Arte 21, one of the owner’s friends). Vintage ceiling lamp and an old clock complete the atmosphere.
The Roma Room:
This room is a tribute to Rome. The color combo of brown and blue is a winner. Floor tiles are the terra cotta ones that go well with the furniture selection; The bed was manufactured in Rome 60 years ago and was recently restored. A Federico Felini’s original poster of the movie Roma sets the atmosphere along with two chairs which were found in the flea markets of Amsterdam.
The Purple Dreams Room:
What can be more retro romantic than sleeping in a bed with an Italian purple velvet back? I think the velvet fabric and the color purple dominates the atmosphere and makes the room a perfect setting for a romance getaway in Rome.
The Movies Room:
This room is inspired by the golden era of Italian cinema. The image of the Kissing couple above the bed is taken from a scene from the movie La Dolce Vita. The 1960’s vintage bed comes with a built-in colorful lights and a radio and the original paintings by the painter Carlo Quatrucci are a true Italian nostalgia to the same era.
Small Retro Double Room:
This room has a beautiful picture of Nina, an Italian 1960’s Icon by Arte 21, and white and orange plastic furniture from the Dutch designer Gispen. All the objects in the room communicates with the colourful tile pattern, which I couldn’t take my eyes of them.
Next time you visit Rome and you are looking for something unique and different, I highly recommend to check in RetRome. Also thanks to its premium location.
RetRome, Via Marco Aurelio 47, 00184 Rome, Italy
A photographed production I shot for Basic Studio and Erlboim Catering on April when I was visiting Israel. The article is now published in Shamenet Magazine, July Summer Issue in Israel.
I love those kinds of productions; A perfect combination of Marine eco chic design and appetizing food with a greek mediterranean touch
Basic Studio is located in an old train car, which is tucked away in the middle of an olive grow in Udim village. After I finished shooting the Studio and interviewing the owners, we pulled out some chairs and a large table to set them outside, and enjoy the delicious Mediterranean food cooked for us by the chef itself, Yahav Erlboim.
Truth is, I’ve been wanting to visit Lisbon for a while now. In fact, last year around April, I was talking with a friend about visiting Lisbon for my Birthday. While I found myself in a different place on my Birthday last year, I actually made it to Lisbon THIS year, few days before my Birthday. I was there only for 48 hours; a really express stay as some may say, but thanks to some insiders precious tips and sleeping only four hours a night, I managed to do and see quite a lot.
I am drawn to Lisbon mostly because it is a mix of a European city with a Mediterranean climate.
It is a very laid back city, sometimes even provincial, and its compact size makes it relatively easy to navigate. Just take the legendary tram no. 28, and you can see all the touristic attractions in one day or two.
Rumors have it that the city has started to wake up recently and becoming more alive, so I figured I had to check it by myself.
Here is my express guide to Lisbon; Where to Stay, Shop, Sip, Party and Eat.
Stay: Hotel Gat Rossio
When I travel, I am always looking for these cute little places to stay in. I’m not looking for grand hotels with red carpets or velvet ropes. It is not my style. Especially not when I am traveling for work. All I need is a comfortable bed, warm shower, free Wi-Fi, a lot of light, friendly staff and a good breakfast. I found it all and more in the Gat Rossio hotel, part of the GatRooms hotel chain in Europe.
In fact, it was my sister who recommended me on the hotel (It is usually the other way around) as she stayed there on her honeymoon a few years ago. ‘They have a really good breakfast buffet’ she told me ‘and a spacious roof deck where you can eat your breakfast’ she added ‘and the staff are so helpful and friendly’. I didn’t have to look further. I loved the clean design, the simplicity and functionality of the space and of course, the great breakfast room where everyone gathered to sit around long tables, enjoying fruits and pasteis de nata, the well-known Portuguese cakes.
Hotel Gat Rossio, Rua do Jardim do Regedor nº 27-35 e Travessa do Forno nº 9-13. Lisboa
Shop: A Vida Portuguesa
When I am in New York, I love shopping in Anthropologie. It is sort of my ‘go-to’ store for design and inspiration for everything that has to do with my tiny apartment. In Lisbon I found the Portuguese equivalent in A Vida Portuguesa, an eclectic store that holds only Portuguese brands and products for the home; from hand-made olive oil soaps to home decor, shoes, pantry, pastry, vintage posters, you name it. There is also an online store, but there is nothing like visiting the store and smelling the soaps and candles.
A Vida Portuguesa, Rua Anchieta 11, 1200-023 Chiado, Lisboa
Sip: KaffeeHaus
It is not a secret that where ever I go and travel, I keep looking for the best coffee in town. Some addictions apparently are hard to be cured. I found KaffeeHaus by chance, while walking in the streets of Chiado area, known for its elegant, sophisticated theaters, bookshops, old-style cafes and luxurious international brand names clothing stores. Even though KaffeeHaus is far from being an old-fashioned typical Lisbon cafe (on the contrary, it has more of a Vienna style) I loved its design, the colorful posters on the walls and the young crowd. Nonchalant, relaxed atmosphere with great coffee and friendly easy going service. (One of the barmen is hard to miss)
KaffeeHaus, Rua Anchieta 3 Chiado, Lisboa
Party: Pensão Amor
Definitely the hottest spot in the city, Pensão Amor, or ‘Guesthouse of Love’ is a chic boudoir style place in Cais do Sodré area, down the hills of Barrio Alto, the upper district in the city, also known also as the hub of night-life. It serves mostly as a bar that serves drinks and Peruvian food, decorated with frescos and endless images and art of nude women. Don’t skip the small bookstore at the back and the pole dance room, decorated with leopard and gold. Highly recommended to make reservations. The place is getting crowded quite fast.
Pensão Amor, Rua do Alecrim, 19, 1200-292 Lisboa
Eat: Martinho da Arcada
Martinho da Arcada is Lisbon’s mythological oldest cafe. Thanks to a friend’s recommendation, I passed through it just to experience the phenomenon and look inside. The cafe was founded in 1778! as Café do Gelo (the Ice Cafe) and mostly sold beverages and ice. After having passed through the hands of a set of different owners, in the early nineteenth century it was called the Casa da Neve (the House of Snow) and sold ice cream to the best of Lisbon’s society. Only in 1845 it received its current name after its owner at that time, Martinho Bartolomeu Rodrigues, who turned it into one of the finest and most popular cafes in the city. Its history of over two centuries is closely linked to the social, political and cultural life of Lisbon. If you come for dinner, highly recommended to make reservations.
Martinho da Arcada, Praça do Comércio 3, 1100-148 Lisboa
Eat: Taberna Ideal
I happened to meet one of the owners of Taberna Ideal, a young energetic Lisbonnaire girl, who is running three restaurants at once with another partner. I really liked the vintage feel of the space, but yet contemporary, the eclectic style and choice of furnitures together with the wall decoration, that made the place feel very earthy and welcoming. I liked the simplicity of the design, a checkered paper as a table mate for example. So simple and yet, so brilliant. The menu keeps the regional taste; tibornas, snacks, salads, main dishes and pans (free-range chicken with almonds, quail pie with sausage, cod au gratin with bread) and a large variety of wine. The atmosphere is young and hip and it is always crowded during dinners and weekends. Make sure you spend at least one meal there when you are visiting Santos-o-Velho neighborhood in Lisbon.
Taberna Ideal, Rua da Esperança, 112-114 1200 Lisboa
Desert: Xocoa
A travel for me is not completed unless I find the best place to get chocolate, dark chocolate. I have this habit of looking for a good cup of coffee and the best chocolate in town. I found Xocoa while strolling one of the main streets in Baixa (I think it was rua Aurea) and the smell of the chocolate hit me that afternoon. I spotted the store sign and went right in. The highlight of Xocoa is chocolate bars covered with gummy bears and colorful candies; The owner of the store just told me it is their best seller. I bought a bunch of these to have as a snack while touring the city. All chocolate pralines are hand-made, with a Portuguese chocolate blend. Do not miss on that.
Xocoa, Rua do Crucifixo, 112-114, Baixa-Chiado,Lisboa
Lisbon offers a variety of good food in a good feel atmosphere all over. 48 hours are definitely not enough, but it left me with a taste for more. I will be back.