If you are on a diet, this post might ruin your efforts to lose weight. In that case, I strongly recommend you skip to the next post and just ignore this one. If you are not on a diet, have a sweet tooth, curious about new things or heading to Paris soon, this post is for you.
I was in Paris in March, shooting a story for Feast Magazine about Rue du Nil for their August issue. In addition, I was asked to shoot a cover for the Bite Size Pieces section of the most popular Parisian Eclairs of the well known pastry chef Christophe Adam, the man behind L’Eclairs de Genie. It seems as the eclairs’ collection is changing by the day and the season and the colorful eclairs come in a range of creative flavors, filling and topping.
Even though I got from Feast Magazine a detailed list of the eclairs they wanted me to shoot, not all the eclairs were available on that day but some different flavors were presented on the counter. I arrived to the store quite early before its opening hours, just so I can have the space (and the eclairs) for myself but within minutes after its opening, the store got crowded by hungry and curious costumers.
Of course I had to try! At least three of them.
My favorite was Eclair Audrey, named after Audrey Gellet, who won a French baking competition in a television series and was honored to create her version for L’Eclairs de Genie. The eclair has chocolate and tonka bean cream, orange praline and candied oranges.
L’Eclairs de Genie is located in 14 Rue Pavée, steps from Saint Paul Metro station.
A little bit before the month of March, I was contacted by the Photo Editor of FEAST Magazine, who asked me if I could shoot a food story for them while I am in Paris. FEAST is one of the leading food magazines in Australia, and shortly did I learn that food magazines in Australia are like what Fashion magazines are in Italy. The Photo Editor mentioned the three magic words, Rue Du Nil, which, in fact was the first time I have heard about this street.
‘…A tiny cobblestone street is the setting of Paris’s recent food revolution with shops that now stock locally and ethically sourced produce and a trio of eateries run by the young chef who started it all…’(words by Clotilde Dusoulier)
This young chef is Greg Marchand, ‘who in 2009 was returning from a few years cooking abroad- Spain, New York, Hong Kong and London. His nickname then was ‘Frenchie’, and he lent it to his own 20-seat restaurant, a tiny space with historic charm, stone walls and exposed beams’
Up till then, I personally didn’t know about Rue du Nil and didn’t hear about Frenchie restaurant, I admit. But after two-days shoot in this tiny street in the up and coming Sentier neighborhood, I felt like I’m at home, saying ‘Hi’ to my neighborhood vendors and having my coffee at my favorite place. Was it because all the shops’ owners were working together and knowing each other, was it because the street is so tiny…I felt very welcomed that even when my shoot was over, I stayed and had a coffee or a drink with the shops’ main players.
‘…In 2011 he (Greg) opened Frenchie Bar a Vins, a no-reservation wine bar where drinks are downed with small plates made from beautifully sourced ingredient. Among the menu items was a pulled pork sandwich that Greg’s wife Marie was so crazy about she convinced him to create a third restaurant, on the same Rue du Nil, which was starting to feel like their own backyard by then…this was how Frenchie To Go was born, in 2013, selling high quality versions of classic sandwiches using house made or locally sourced ingredients…Meanwhile, Greg kept developing relationship with suppliers and partners, many of whom had become his friends. Among them were Alexandre Drouard and Samuel Nahon, who had created a company in 2008 called Terroirs d’Avenir– ‘terroirs with a future’…..’
When Greg told them about an availability of some shops in the street, Alexandre and Samuel seized this opportunity and opened three shops side by side; A butcher shop, a fish shop and vegetables and cheese one. I was very impressed by these two young guys and their vision that I found myself having a long conversation with Alexandre (off my shooting hours of course) about the business background and the plans for the future.
The third location I had to shoot in Rue du Nil was L’Arbre a Cafe, located opposite from Frenchie To Go. Hippolyte Courty, the owner of the company, is a well trained coffee roaster who specializes in exceptional coffee grown on biodynamic farms from Ethiopia to India. As a coffee addict myself who is always in search of a good and quality coffee, I highly recommend L’Arbre a Cafe, The Coffee Tree. In one of my days-off shooting I took the Metro all the way from the 11th Arrondissements to the 2nd, just to have a good cappuccino.
The months of March and April were filled with Food shots assignment, and I found this one about Rue du Nil, one of the most enjoyable experiences I had. The Food, the people, the location, all made it a fun one.
Here are some of my favorite shots of Rue du Nil.
Bon Appétit !
5-6 Rue du Nil, Paris, Metro 3 Sentier
Open Monday-Friday 8:30- 16:30, Saturday and Sunday 9:30- 17:30
Gregory Marchand, Chef and Owner at the entrance to Rue du Nil
Sebbie Kenyon, Sous Chef, preparing the seasonal soup
Ben Roussel, Frenchie To Go Manager
Camille Malmquist, Pastry Chef
Francois Roche, Sous Chef at Frenchie Bar a Vins
Reuben’s Sandwich, Pastrami on Rye
7 Rue du Nil, Paris, Metro 3 Sentier
Open Monday-Friday 10:00-16:00
Samuel Nahon and Alexandre Drouard, Owners, at the entrance to the fish shop
10 Rue du Nil, Paris, Metro 3 Sentier
Open Tuesday- Friday 12:30-19:30, Saturday 10:00-19:00
Hippolyte Courty, Owner, at the entrance to his store
I love it when magazines from different countries and aspects find an interest in my on going Laundry Project ‘Intimacy Under the Wires’. Whether these are Photography Magazines, Travel Magazines, Art, or Home related ones, it is always an honor for me and an evidence that people feel related to this matter. My recent feature is (believe it or not) in Einfach Hausgemacht, (Easy Homemade) a Home and Kitchen Magazine, published in Germany.
‘…For us it is everyday life, for Sivan Askayo it means Art: The young Israeli photographs clotheslines. In Argentina, Spain, Vietnam – Everywhere in the world. But what is the reason? ‘Einfach Hausgemacht’ asked why”
“The travel photographer has her origins in Tel Aviv and lives in New York right now. She is a student and assistant teacher at International Center of Photography (ICP). In New York she also did her masters in Marketing and Advertising”
I feel a bit over exposed in the short interview I did for Resource Magazine, Summer Issue. But then again, part of our job, as photographers, is to highlight and focus on one object while keeping other in the shadow. Same with our lives. There are matters we feel comfortable to share and talk about, and there are those we prefer not to discuss.
However, this is not the first time I am sharing my personal path and what led me to establish a new career for myself (divorce and lay off from work) and most likely, the second time I am sharing my story with Resource Magazine’s readers. The first time was on September 2012, being interviewed about my personal photography project ‘Intimacy under the Wires’. Take a look here.
But let me share some of my Q+A I did right after submitting the images to the Productions of the World; Paris. Here is my favorite part: The First and Last questions in the interview.
Q: What’s it like having your work published in publications like Travel+Leisure, Marie Claire Italia and Conde Nast Traveller?
Me: These are publications that I’ve always wanted to work for and I feel very proud. Now that I’ve been published, I need to pinch myself to remind myself it’s really happening. It feels good because people don’t know how hard it is to shoot. When you see the printed pictures it all looks so perfect and defined, but there are so many things that a photographer needs to do to get the shot. I always feel accomplished when I see the magazines.
Q: Now that you’ve become established in photography, what could you say your biggest obstacles are?
Me: When you go on a shoot you need to think ahead of time about what can go wrong, and when you work in a different country with different people, the obstacle is that you never know what they’re thinking. Sometimes I’ll construct a shoot in my mind and people don’t see it the same way as I do- but this is all part of the job!
Here is the full article.
For the third time (and hopefully not the last) I am honored to contribute to the series ‘Productions of the World’ in the Photography Trade magazine Resource Magazine. In the previous articles I wrote about Tel Aviv and Lisbon, and this time it is all about Paris, one of my favorite cities to photograph and visit. I was happy to get an email from Aurelie, the Editor of Resource, who has asked me to share some of my Paris’ pictures. I couldn’t have asked for a better compliment, coming from a native Parisian like Aurelie.
If you are a photographer who is interested to shoot in Paris or have any upcoming production or a shoot there, this article will definitely help you plan it. And if you are not a photographer but still, visiting the French capital, you will find some great tips and recommendations.
To read the full article, please click here.
Sweden was always related to me with ABBA songs and IKEA furniture. I used to look at it as a cold destination somewhere along the Baltic Sea, not necessarily a destination I was eager to visit. During a trip to Vietnam, I met with some travelers from Sweden who they kept telling me about the short Summers they have and how everybody is jumping into the ocean right when the temperatures went up.
So when the opportunity of visiting this area during the Summer time came up, I got used to the idea of visiting the Scandic side on the Globe.
I didn’t have lots of expectations or pre-knowledge about Stockholm, I was say, but it was just perfect. Sometimes I prefer it that way; be opened for surprises and experience the city first hand.
Stockholm is just beautiful! It is spread over a magnificent chain of 14 islands connected by bridges. No wonder it is named The Venice of Scandinavia. I love the color schemes of the buildings, brown-yellow -orange tone with greenish spires. Adding to this the Swedish Fika, (coffee break) and the cafes in every corner, to make Stockholm a city I can easily go back to.
Here is what you need to know about Stockholm in a nutshell and how to find your way around it;
* The first settlement was Gamla Stan, the Old Town, where a maze of cobbled stones alleys are lined with colorful baroque and medieval facades. * The island of Skeppsholmen has become associated with culture, thanks to the three large museums located there; The Moderna museet, the Arkitekturmuseet and the Ostasiatiska museet. * Djurgarden, a former royal hunting ground from the 17th century, now turned into Stockholmers’ favorite playground, where locals like to visit on the weekend. * The wealthy neighborhood of Ostermalm, with its elegant residential buildings and luxury boutiques and * Sodermalm, a formerly working-class neighborhood turned into a young, artistic suburb with trendy bars and restaurants.
And if you want the ‘short cut’, here are some of my personal recommendations;
What to do and see:
* Fotografiska: This contemporary photography museum is quite new (opened in 2010) and offers a showcase for both internationally renowned artists (such as Annie Leibovitz, David LaChapelle) and unknowns. The space itself is quite impressive as well. Located in a red-brick Art Nouveau building that used to be a former customs building. There is a great city view from the restaurant in the upper floor and a rich and diverse bookstore that doesn’t put to shame the one at ICP museum in New York. This museum is highly recommended and not only for photographers. (Sodermalm Island)
* Katarina Kirka: This is one of Stockholm’s three domed churches, named after Princess Catherine and is located in the Katarina-Sofia borough up the hill in Sodermalm. The original building was completed in 1695 but was burned down twice. The latest replica was completed in the 1990’s and it has the shape of a Greek cross and topped by a beautiful baroque dome. For me, it was the first time seeing a Scandinavian church. Most of the churches I came across before, were more on the dark side with minimum light. But Katarina Kirka’s inside area is all bright and light.
* If you already made your way up to Katarina Kirak, I highly recommend to pass through Katarinahissen, an elevator which connects Slussenområdet with Sodermalm area. The original elevator was driven by steam from its opening in 1883 until the mid 1910s, when it switched to electricity. In 1935 it was replaced by a more modern version, that is still in use today. I was not aware of the elevator, but I took the steep stairs up, just to see the magnificent views of Gamla Stan across the see.
* Rosendals Tradgard: This beautiful park in Djuragarden was originally created in 1817 as an English park style, called Rosendals (named after the roses grew in it), but now is a public experiment in organic food and flora-growing. I’ve been told that some of the city’s top chefs visit the area and buy their product here. I enjoyed walking in the greenhouse area and see variety of plants. Next to the greenery there is the Rosendals Tradgards Butiken and Plantboden which sells the garden’s jams, herbs and spices. I found it to be a perfect location for a weekend’s brunch as long as weather permits.
Djuragarden, as I mentioned before, is the backyard, playground of Stockholm. One of the locals Sunday rituals is to visit the Skansen museum or a scary ride at one of the Grona Lund attractions. But there are also beautiful villas around that island, which have been turned into magnificent art galleries. I really enjoyed walking around and along the water’s edge, exploring some of the wild beauty and peeping through some gates to see some of the villas back yards. One of the villas I have visited was Thielska Galleriet. I got there by chance. I didn’t even plan it, but it turned out that Thielska Galleriet is one of the finest Art museums in Sweden. The villa was built and designed for Ernest Thiel, who was a banker and an Art collector in the early 1900s.
An added value for this beautiful gallery is its cafe. When I got in to buy a delicious cake (just so I can nibble while I sit outside in the garden) I was welcomed by the beautiful Chef Monika Ahlberg, whose cooking books were decorating the cafe’s walls. Monika is not only a stunning woman, but also a talented chef, who has published few cooking books under her belt.
Where to shop:
There are so many H&M stores in Stockholm, it felt like the equivalent of Starbucks coffee in Manhattan. However, I was not after the fashion in Stockholm, but more after the design.
* Modernity: I have heard about this store through Travel+Leisure Decoder article about Stockholm. I was intrigued by the shelves that covered the entire wall with a great collection of ceramics housewares and vases. Not to mention the mix of retro furniture with a Nordic twist. The store keeper was so excited to hear that I followed the article (I brought the magazine with me) that she also gave me the address of Modernity’s warehouse, few streets down the road. Rest assured I went there right away.
* Svenskt Tenn: This store might be the mecca of design in Stockholm and the symbol of Swedish modern style. The brand was founded in 1924 by Estrid Ericson, a jewelry maker, and designer Josef Frank. They wanted to create a brand where bold colors co-exist with simple clean lines. The store is located in Strandvägen 5, same address from 1927.
My favorite part of the brand is its textile and fabrics. Josef Frank designed more than 160 textile prints during his lifetime, several of which lives on as timeless classics. You can find these rich and colorful patterns in cushions, dining textile, kitchen textile, wallpapers, sofas, you name it. The store is beautifully curated with a great selection of glassware, lighting, furniture and textile. This is a must-stop in Stockholm.
If these two stores are not enough and you need an extra dose of Nordic design, then pay a visit to Nordiska Galleriet, an industrial- style space filled with all kinds of furniture and home accessories, by a wide collection of designers.
Where to stay:
While in Stockholm, I was very lucky to stay in a very central location, at the Scandic Grand Central, just across the street from the train station. The highlight of my visit was staying at the ‘Bloggers Inn’, a specially designed room for bloggers (or social media peeps) which includes most of what a blogger might need: Make it an iPad, a laptop, a camera, a tripod and wifi loudspeakers.
I have heard about the Bloggers Inn from Judith, a colleague, a friend and a blogger, who stayed there before.
I must admit I love this concept and the thought behind it; as the market needs are changing, the hotel is adjusting its standards accordingly. This is such a great initiative and I do hope this ‘Bloggers Inn’ concept will be spread out in more hotels across the Globe.
Another great thing about the Scandic Grand Central is its interaction with the street’s life. The doors are open to hotel guests and locals who enjoy an international atmosphere. There are acoustic concerts taking place and djs performances in the bar. Its sleek and chic design make this historic building (1885) to an up-to-date and leading hotel in the area.
* Hotel Skeppsholmen: This hotel (based on its name) is located on the island of Skeppsholmen. If I have to choose my favorite island in Stockholm, Skeppsholmen will be it.
What used to be a pair of a 17th century buildings, have now been transformed into an eco retreat hotel with great interior design. It is a mix of past and present which represents the ‘Urban Nature’ kind of hotel. Following the Swedish atmosphere, the hotel features pared down colors, raw wood and quite big bathrooms with unique Boffi basins. I love the dark color bathrooms in the hotel, a complete contrast to the rooms colors and shades.
Another recommended hotel (I wish I could photograph it) is Ett Hem. In English it means ‘Home’ and no wonder; It used to be a private residence built in 1910 in Ostermalm area. Now, it is part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World, with 12 different rooms and suits, with great Scandinavian furniture, mixed of modern and antique. It is a very ‘Home away from Home’ kind of hotel, where guests are treated as friends of the family and become part of it. You can have your breakfast any time of the day, read your newspaper at the greenery or grab one of the Art books from the owner’s collection and feel like you are at home.
I was well overwhelmed by its beauty, colors and attention to details. The owner has an amazing taste.
I could only wish to stay there.
There is so much of the buzz related to Denmark and Copenhagen regarding the Modern Danish Design. Denmark has been a leading nation in the design field for decades. Whether it is a Danish furniture to Danish fashion and Danish toys, Denmark is producing World renowned design classics, which are being distributed and copied worldwide. Starting in the 1950s with design legends such as Arne Jacobsen (mostly known for the ‘Egg’ chair) and Hans Wegner (known for the ‘Shell’ chair) the Danish design tradition has developed into a strong international brand. Scandinavian, and in particular Danish design has become synonymous with timeless style and no wonder Copenhagen is filled with stores of that kind, and I will mention some of the names and addresses at the bottom of this post. Here are some of the spots we visited and these are really just the tip of the iceberg in Copenhagen.
The Danish Design Center was different than what I had expected. Somewhat I thought I would find a large space which curates, shows and promotes the Danish design; a place that will play the role of a library or informational center, maybe even a museum of the history of the Danish design. Instead, I got into a nice and colorful cafe area, Design Society Cafe, where people can sit and work on their computers while the second floor is dedicated to some professionals whose goal is to promote the design activities in the intersection of design and innovation, in order to solve architectural problems. In other words, we didn’t see any kind of ‘design’ or furniture in the DDC, but we got to enjoy a nice coffee break in a very colorful space (see image on top).
Design Society, Andersens Boulevard, 27. Opening Hours: 9:00- 17:00 during weekdays. The Danish Design Center
The first time I came across the colorful furniture and accessories of Hay, was actually last year during a shoot I had in Ghent (Flanders) where I ran into a beautiful concept store called Ydee, with a vibrant window-display . I had a nice conversation with the store owner who explained to me the philosophy of Hay. I could easily buy half of the store back then but I was ‘saved’ by a limitation of space in my small luggage. (I wish I could tell the store manager to pack me a table to go. You know what I mean). Since then I started to notice some mentioning of Hay on some of my colleagues blogs and I knew that once I visit Copenhagen, I definitely need to visit their store.
Hay is considered the forefront of Denmark’s design renaissance. The Hay House, is located in an elegant 1896 Art Nouveau building in Østergade 61 and it is a colorful two-floors store packed with brands such as Vitra, Alessi, Komplot and Established and Sons as well as many smaller local brands. When we got to the store, it was quite packed with other curious people like me who walked around and were happy to take pictures.
Hay, Østergade 61 Copenhagen.
Are you in need for some fonts? Would you like to shop some? This tiny store in Værnedamsvej street is offering a very wide selection of fonts. In 2010, The Copenhagen design agency e-Types opened the world’s first physical font shop, serving as a material manifestation of the agency’s webpage. A few of my colleague bloggers recommended the place, which also sells posters, cups and T shirts, for the non graphic designers and/or the typographers among us. Those graphic designers and typographers will find a great interest on a Mac computer in the back, where they can search for fonts or buy one to take with them on a USB device. As this store is quite small, the easiest way to locate it in the city, is just across the street from Granola cafe. Check the opening hours in advance.
Playtype, Vaernedamsvej 6, Copenhagen, Opening Hours: Monday – Friday: 12-18, Saturday: 11-15
More Stores and Addresses worth checking:
Norman: Located in a former cinema, this furniture store hosts the brand’s entire range of modern designs and also stocks larger pieces by companies such as New Danish Modern, Moooi and Established and Sons.
Designer Zoo: This is one of the most interesting places in Copenhagen to visit and witness how handicraft is being made. There are eight young in house designers with whom you can communicate and ask questions about their work flow, etc. From knitting, painting, metal work, glasswork or ceramics, the results are beautiful. The store was founded by Karsten Lauritsen, a furniture designer who was looking for a space to highlight these hand crafts from across Denmark in one place.
Royal Copenhagen: In case you are looking for a blue-blooded porcelain manufacturer (owned and run by the royal family from 1775 to 1868) then the Royal Copenhagen flagship in Amagertorv 6, is the place for you. Located in one of Copenhagen’s oldest renaissance buildings (dating back to 1616) the space is an integrated museum and shop, which stocks the brand’s entire collection, including the ‘Blue Fluted’ patterns that have graced Royal Copenhagen tableware since it was founded to modern collaborations.
Retrograd: For those of you who are after the Vintage, Retrograd keeps an impressive stock of vintage furnishings and household items from the 1950 and the 1960. It stocks everything from porcelain to tableware. The store was opened in 2003 first as a small basement store that soon got bigger. The store is considered a wonderland for any design collector, interior designer or anyone who loves to collect vintage items.
‘If you are visiting one museum in Copenhagen, than let it be Louisiana Museum’ one guy told me.
‘Each time I talk about Louisiana, I have goosebumps’ the sales lady told us with almost-tears in her eyes.
So we decided to go to Louisiana Museum.
‘But wait! If you are going to Louisiana, you should also visit the Maritime Museum…it’s on the same train line’ I got this precious tip from Signe, a local friend of mine.
Eventually, our last day in Copenhagen was dedicated to visit these two museums. If you end up doing so (Highly recommended) better get a daily train ticket from Copenhagen’s Central Station and use it to visit both museums; Louisiana museum is located 25 miles north of Copenhagen (35 minutes train ride and get off at Humlebaek station) and the Maritime museum is located in Helsingor (another 15 minutes train ride from Humlebaek)
Before I write in more details about these museums, I have a confession to make; I have seen a lot of museums in recent years; thanks to living in New York and for traveling to other countries. And I must admit that these two museums (mostly the Maritime one) have amazed me and are definitely a must-visit.
This beautiful museum is located in the middle of a green and picturesque grove on one side and with a panoramic view of the coastline on the other side. Opened in 1958, the museum has gone through seven expansions, conducted by the well known Danish architects Jorgen Bo and Vilhelm Wohlert, who wanted to keep the architecture and the structure of the museum connected to its surrounding. Having big windows in such a way to allow daylight come in and at the same time, not to damage the Art. The architect have created an outdoor sculpture park where the visitors are walking through glass passage, leading them into the other pavilions.
Beside the sculpture park and other permanent collections, the museum is hosting various artists as guest exhibitions. One of my favorite permanent exhibit was the Giacometti gallery (3rd image) a two-floors gallery with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the grove. I also enjoyed visiting the Children’s wing, which seemed to be popular not only among kids but also among their parents and grandparents, enriching them with various artistic activities.
Plan your visit around noon time and have your lunch outdoors (weather permits) to enjoy a beautiful panoramic view of the coast and of Sweden in the horizon.
Opening Hours: Tuesday-Friday: 11:00 – 22:00, Weekend: 11:00-18:00. Closed on Monday. Louisiana Museum.
So this museum was an amazing surprise. At least for me.
It started with its location in the city of Helsingor, known mostly for Kronborg castle, where Shakespeares’ play Hamlet is set, but also known as a city with great dockyards, where ships were built. The museum itself is built in an old dry dock between Kronborg castle and the Culture Yard, as an underground museum (it took me a while to find the entrance) designed by one of the most renowned international architect Bjarke Ingles.
The entering hall of the museum transfers you immediately to an almost-real experience of an underwater maritime world. A hall colored in a deep blue tone and a red big float in the center of it, makes you feel you are in the middle of the ocean, underwater. The museum pays a great tribute to the history of Denmark as one of the world’s leading shipping nations, the life of the mariners and their families as well as the shipping and the trade cultures Denmark is holding.
In addition to the experiential exhibitions, presented in a very engaging and evocative way, there is also a permanent exhibition highlighting the creation and the building process of the museum itself. I highly recommend to see all the steps and process to execute this kind of a museum. The architecture of the museum is quite impressive; built in a dry dock, the floors in the exhibition area slope downwards and the hallways are actually made as glass walls, guiding the visitors through a continuous flow of spaces connecting one dock to another.
Some might tend to see this museum mostly for kids but I do think it is one of the most well done and explanatory museum for the Maritime life. Don’t miss it.
Opening Hours: Open Daily 11:00-17:00. Closed on Monday. M/S Maritime Museum of Denmark
I am not sure what was the exact trigger that made me book a flight to Copenhagen (and soon Stockholm) a few days ago, but for sure, it was a good one. My original plan was to travel to Iceland. I found a good priced ticket but what I didn’t realize was the high cost of living and traveling there. The only way to enjoy Iceland is by driving around and I didn’t have the right partner for that, so I decided to ‘stay’ in the Scandinavian area and look for locations that would be easier to navigate. Since my mom wanted to visit Scandinavia for a while now, I have decided to take her both to Copenhagen and Stockholm, preferred during Summer time or before the weather will get too cold. At least for her.
I must admit that some people warned us that Copenhagen can be…well…quite boring or slow paced, especially for someone like me who is coming from New York. Indeed, Copenhagen is slow paced and very relaxed. It seems as though the Danes never get upset, but the city (especially during Summer time) is far from being boring. On the contrary; since the warm weather and the long day-light hours, the city is quite vibrant and alive.
Even though Copenhagen is considered one of Europe quieter capitals, the city is growing and becoming adventurous. A new wave of designers, architects and chefs has helped fuel Copenhagen’s revival. The New Nordic might be considered the cuisine of the moment, mostly thanks to Noma restaurant and the design scene is very much a source of inspiration and imitation around the world.
From the moment you arrive to the city to the time you leave, you will eat, shop, bike and sleep in style. Guaranteed.
Here is the first post in a series of some of my recommendations of places I have visited (some of them are not yet in travel books). The first post in the series is about the Food:
People fly to Copenhagen just to eat at Noma, which is considered one of the the best restaurant in the world , if not THE BEST. It is also the only place in the city to have two Michelin stars. So no doubt here it will be quite a challenge to have a reservation. Noma has pioneered what is called the ‘New Nordic Cuisine’ movement, promoting traditional styles of cooking while using fresh ingredients grown in Scandinavia. It was just a matter of time for similar restaurants to pop and succeed.
One of them is Höst
This restaurant is very much similar to Noma’s design, with the unpolished and bare concrete walls and floors, the raw wooden furniture, the wooden bars on the ceiling and the massive black industrial lights hanging from the ceiling. The color scheme is very Nordic; black and white, greys and raw wood. (Höst has already won three international design awards, including the award for the World’s Best-Designed Restaurant at the Restaurant & Bar Design Awards).
The restaurant offers a fixed three-course menu that can be combined with a standard wine menu or pair with the upgraded selection of wines. There is also a small à la carte menu to choose from.
One thing is for sure though; You’d better have friends at Höst who can get you a table or you should book a table way in advance.
Opening Hours: Monday to Sunday: 17.30 – 24.00, Nørre Farimagsgade 41, 1364 Kbh.K firstname.lastname@example.org
Geist is one of those restaurants that you need to know where they are located, otherwise you might not be able to find them. Tucked in an inner courtyard, in what seems to be a residential/office building in Kongens Nytorv, I found Geist only because I was curious to find out what was in this courtyard. When I got in it was a bit before noon and the the crew was in the beginning of getting the restaurant ready for lunch. Geist has two areas provide distinct scenes. The less formal food bar features tall stools around the bar, whereas the dining room is more classic with tall columns and round tables. The menu is mostly based on meat and seafood and presents a 30-dish a la carte menu. Also here, better make reservations especially for dinner time.
Opening Hours: Every day: lunch 12.00 – 15.00, dinner 18.00 – 01.00, Kongens Nytorv 8, Geist
This might be one of the most popular, hype and trendy location for a suitable brunch in Copenhagen. Located in a tiny but stylish street in Frederiksberg, Granola offers great coffee, homemade cakes and breakfast made by fresh organic ingredients. When we got in, it seemed everyone was having a milkshake or a smoothie on the table and even though I am a coffee junkie, a friendly recommendation got me to have a fruity milkshake. My mom ordered a chocolate creme (they make it with nutella) and after tasting those, I understood why everyone had one.
The place has the touch of an American diner, both in some of the food and the interior (maybe that’s why it got its popularity from) although coming from NY, I would have preferred a Danish design.
Granola has become a popular place among the local crowd but also attracts tourists who get recommendations from (probably the) locals. For dinner, better make reservations in advance.
Opening Hours: Monday to Friday: 7:00- 24:00, Weekend open at 9:00, Sunday closed at 16:00. Vaernedamsvej 5, Frederiksberg, Granola
This cute place got to be my neighborhood’s morning cafe, where I stayed in Frederiksberg area in Copenhagen. I first saw it during my morning run along Gammel street. I liked the outdoor communal table, where locals parked their bikes and started to settled for their morning coffee. The interior is simple but stylish. One of the walls has an industrial look thanks to the metal boards and the hanging green lamps that serve as decoration. The wooden chairs with the big pillows add to a homey and cosy atmosphere, a feeling you get the moment you enter the cafe. Maybe because the owner is standing behind the counter, her daughter is helping to set up the tables and the owner’s mom is having her morning coffee there as well. Or maybe it is because of the delicate and colorful coffee mugs, the home made granola or the freshly baked banana bread.
All of the above make Cafe Ipsen & Co a great start for the day.
Opening Hours: Monday to Friday: 8:00-18:00, Weekend: 9:00- 17:00, Gammel Kongevej 108, Frederiksberg. Ipsen & Co.
Torvehallerne Gourmet Market: Just a walking distance from Höst restaurant, coming out from Frederiksberg metro station, is a must visit market for anyone interested in the Danish gourmet food for a reasonable price. We actually found this market by chance when I was rushing to photograph Höst. When we came out of the Frederiksberg metro station, we saw lots of Danes dining outdoors, hanging out with friends, sitting around communal tables, benches or crowding around the Kava bar, holding a glass of wine. The market is a well lit glass with almost 80 enclosed aisles with various goods and foods; from fresh breads, French fromagerie, meat, fish, flowers, and sweets.
It is a very happening location especially during Summer time and it is a great alternative in case you didn’t make any dinner reservations for one of the fancy restaurants in town.
Opening Hours: Monday to Thursday: 10:00- 19:00, Friday open till 20:00. Weekend: 10:00- 17:00. Frederiksborggade 21, Frederiksberg metro station. Torvehallerne
I think that most photographers, beside seeing their images in print and in Travel magazines, might feel very proud and accomplished when they see their own picture in the contributors’ page.
At least this is how I feel when I see my picture and my name. Especially when it has to do with World Top magazine such as Travel + Leisure.
In this coming July issue, I will have my Feasts of Tel Aviv food story published, but also a short interview with me about it. Needless to say it feels almost unreal and for me it is a dream comes true. If you can’t grab a copy at the nearest newsstand, here is the interview… right after this…
Restaurant you’ll go to again and again: I spend a lot of time in Tel Aviv, and lately, I find myself constantly returning to Cafe Nachmani. I love its artistic interior and atmospher – It makes me feel as I am back in New York.
You can’t call yourself a Tel Aviv foodie until…You’ve elbowed your way through the long lines at Abu Hassan, a hummus place in Jaffa.
Favorite Photo subject: Laundry. I’ve traveled to Naples, Italy and Menton, in the South of France just to shoot hanging laundry for my ongoing photography project ‘Intimacy Under the Wires’
Food you couldn’t live without: Dark Chocolate. I’d eat it at every meal.
Best dish while on assignment: Ricotta gnocchi on a bed of chard, mostly because chef Haim Cohen of Yaffo Tel Aviv cooked it for me himself.